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Metal jewelry different materials are expensive jewelry, ornaments and general metal imitation jewelry categories. Precious metal jewelry and ornaments including gold, platinum and white silver jewelry ornaments. From the color point of view, all kinds of jewelry have similar products, they are very confusing. Therefore, there should be a clear understanding of the characteristics of various types of jewelry.
First, the variety of gold jewelry
(1) Pure gold and its impurities
Including the full gold, thousands of gold and 24K gold, according to the draft of the national standard must contain >990%. The impurities contained are mainly: Cu, Ag, Ni, Fe, Bi, Sn, Pb, Ti, Al, Si, Zn, Sb, Pt, Pd, Os, Ir and the like.
(2) K gold and its color
Generally used is 10K ~ 22K gold, the most commonly used in China is 18K gold. K gold is popular because of its high hardness, rich colors, trendy styles and a wide variety. The mouth-filling elements are mainly Cu, Zn, Ag, Ni, and small changes in the type and proportion of the K-gold color change. The phase diagram of the Au-Ag-Cu ternary alloy made by James W.K clearly shows the relationship between K gold composition and color (see Figure 1).
Figure 1 Au-Ag-Cu alloy and color
(3) Parcels and their characteristics
According to the different processing techniques, it is divided into gold-plated jewellery, gold-plated jewellery and sheet metal jewellery. The process is electroplating, embossing and high-temperature smelting of gold- mercury mud. The gold layer and gold foil wrapped are very thin, generally 3~5μm. The gold can be up to 5~10μm.
Second, K white gold jewelry types
The term “K Platinum†has two meanings, one is K gold of white gold, that is, the material with different gold content; the other is K gold of platinum ( platinum ), which is a material with different platinum content.
There are three main series of formulas for white gold, namely: gold and palladium , gold and nickel , gold and silver, or a combination of them to form a good alloy, which can be formed into white gold (White Gold) expressed by "WG".
Nickel and palladium applied to the gold-based alloy or a copper-based alloy may be an alloy formed of white, silver generally contain nickel, but can not add a palladium silver, although gold and silver, gold and palladium K gold can form a white, but will The three metals are fused together, but not white gold, but a brown gold. Silver K Platinum generally only appears below 10K.
K Platinum color calculation method is the same as K gold. The actual content is as shown in Table 1. The last two items in the table belong to the gold-palladium series, which are Hong Kong products, called "60% K Platinum" or "334 Gold", "40% K Platinum" or "226" Gold, which are now available on the mainland, both on the back. The 18K and 14K seals are marked respectively, indicating that their value is comparable to 18K or 14K gold jewelry, but the actual gold content is not 18K, 14K gold. White K gold has a white color, very similar to platinum, with K gold nature, can be used as inlaid jewelry, elegant and generous, and cheap. For the sake of realism, often then coated with a layer of rhodium, and more may be spurious.
Table 1 Main components of common K Platinum (%)
K Platinum Type
Au
Ag
Cu
Zn
Ni
Pd
Remarks
18K white gold
1
75.3
0.16
16.75
2.58
5.21
2
75.7
0.20
8.3
3.2
12.6
3
75
10
10
5
14K white gold
58.5
22.4
14.1
5
9K white gold
37.9
38.5
20
4
60% K Platinum "334" Gold
30
Cu+Zn+Ni=40%
Seal label 18K
40% K Platinum "226" Gold
20
Cu+Zn+Ni=20%
Seal label 14K
The formulation of K gold, which represents platinum, is mainly platinum-based metal, and its mouth-filling elements are mainly precious metals. Such as palladium, rhodium, silver, etc., followed by copper, cobalt . There is very little information on the chemical composition of K platinum. A certain K platinum ring is tested, and its composition is Pt49.2%, Rh49.9%, Cu0.9%. At present, some literatures often refer to the standard formula of K Platinum, 18K platinum is platinum 75%, platinum palladium alloy 20%, silver 5%; 14K platinum is platinum 58.5%, platinum palladium alloy 20%, silver 21.5%, these two The platinum content of the alloy is no longer 18K and 14KB.
Third, the type of imitation gold jewelry
Imitation gold jewelry refers to gold-like jewelry made of materials similar in color to gold. It is a fake gold jewellery and does not contain any gold ingredients. Includes the following major varieties:
(1) Rough gold jewelry
Brass is added to the alloy of certain rare earth elements. It contains neither gold nor silver. However, the color, luster and process characteristics are very similar to those of gold. It is one of the ideal materials for imitation gold materials because it is long-lasting, corrosion-resistant and high-grade. The biggest advantage is that it does not fade, bright, and the price is only about 1/10 of gold.
(2) Asian gold jewelry
It is an alloy material mainly composed of copper, and is often added with Zn and Ni brass materials. The results of electron probe analysis of several samples are shown in Table 2. Its advantage is that the corrosion resistance is better than that of copper, and the process property is similar to K gold, or second only to K gold, so it is called gold. In addition to vegetarian jewelry, it is often used as a gold-plated, copper-plated, silver-plated carcass material. Its appearance is not as good as thin gold, and it is easy to fade and lose luster.
Table 2 Asian gold jewelry ingredients (%)
Cu
2n
Ni
Japanese production of gold
75.1
24.7
0.1
country
Production
Central
70.1
29.9
0.03
Edge copper plating
99.8
0.1
0.04
Yajin
68.1
31.1
0.8
(3) Plating imitation gold jewelry
The copper alloy is used as the carcass, and the special electroplating solution mainly made of brass is used to make the jewelry made by the superb electroplating process. Due to its high level of electroplating, the finished lacquer jewellery is completely comparable in appearance to gold but does not contain any gold or silver. This type of jewellery has the highest level of Italian craftsmanship and has been occupying the Chinese market in recent years. The disadvantage is that the corrosion resistance is poor, and it will fade and wear soon, and it is generally only used for short-term use.
(Iv) a titanium gold jewelry
Titanium has a small specific gravity and is inexpensive. It is an ideal alloy material. It is gray-white in itself, but produces different colors at different currents. Titanium alloy can be used as jewelry. More is used to electroplate jewelry, watches and pens. There is a titanium plating process in which nitrogen and acetylene are used in high vacuum, and pure titanium flakes are simultaneously burned to form a golden titanium nitride film with a thickness of 1 to 2/μm. Titanium-plated jewelry has high hardness, wear resistance and corrosion resistance, and is an important material for imitation gold.
(5) Copper jewelry
Including copper jewelry, brass jewelry and bronze jewelry, it is an alloy of copper with zinc and tin . Its composition and performance are shown in Table 3. The alloy material can be hard or soft, and can be used as both plain copper jewelry and copper inlaid jewelry, and more as an electroplated carcass material. It is a large family of fake jewellery. Copper is easy to oxidize and has unstable color. It needs to be chemically treated to prevent oxidation and is easy to fade. It is a low-grade metal jewelry.
Table 3 Characteristics of copper jewelry composition
Cu (%)
Zn (%)
Sn (%)
Copper (red copper)
85
15
brass
85~55
15~45
Bronze (bronze)
95~80
5~20